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Study on reverse calculation for unidirectional waves from shallow water

Study on reverse calculation for unidirectional waves from shallow water
Study on reverse calculation for unidirectional waves from shallow water
In the coastal region, some wave measurements are usually deployed in shallow water. However, the knowledge of deep-water waves is more required in some cases. Targeting the east coast of Taiwan with a steep slope, we experimentally detect the capability of the linear spectrum theory in reversely estimating unidirectional deep-water waves from the shallow-water waves. Tank experiments of irregular waves show that the nonlinearity of wave-wave interactions significantly contributes to the total energy transfer. The energy of incident waves around peak frequency is transferred to lower and higher frequency domains. Even though waves are travelling through a short distance under a steep slope, the nonlinear wave-wave interactions cannot be neglected. In the application of the linear spectrum theory, the reversely calculated deep-water spectrum is found to be overestimated in frequency over 2Hz and in total energy of spectrum, but underestimated around peak frequency. There is evidence to show that the ratio of H 1/3 /Hs is correlated with the spectral bandwidth and Kurtosis.
0749-0208
219-224
Feng, Xiangbo
ea69bf52-760a-46a1-921c-b3ebf172c754
Shaw, A.G.P.
4afa8737-18d4-4c88-98a4-55572fb51562
Zhang, Wei
fa6d7061-bfce-48c0-879c-925302213c1a
Feng, Xiangbo
ea69bf52-760a-46a1-921c-b3ebf172c754
Shaw, A.G.P.
4afa8737-18d4-4c88-98a4-55572fb51562
Zhang, Wei
fa6d7061-bfce-48c0-879c-925302213c1a

Feng, Xiangbo, Shaw, A.G.P. and Zhang, Wei (2013) Study on reverse calculation for unidirectional waves from shallow water. Journal of Coastal Research, Spec. Issue 65, 219-224. (doi:10.2112/SI65-038.1).

Record type: Article

Abstract

In the coastal region, some wave measurements are usually deployed in shallow water. However, the knowledge of deep-water waves is more required in some cases. Targeting the east coast of Taiwan with a steep slope, we experimentally detect the capability of the linear spectrum theory in reversely estimating unidirectional deep-water waves from the shallow-water waves. Tank experiments of irregular waves show that the nonlinearity of wave-wave interactions significantly contributes to the total energy transfer. The energy of incident waves around peak frequency is transferred to lower and higher frequency domains. Even though waves are travelling through a short distance under a steep slope, the nonlinear wave-wave interactions cannot be neglected. In the application of the linear spectrum theory, the reversely calculated deep-water spectrum is found to be overestimated in frequency over 2Hz and in total energy of spectrum, but underestimated around peak frequency. There is evidence to show that the ratio of H 1/3 /Hs is correlated with the spectral bandwidth and Kurtosis.

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Published date: 16 April 2013
Organisations: Physical Oceanography, Marine Physics and Ocean Climate

Identifiers

Local EPrints ID: 360890
URI: http://eprints.soton.ac.uk/id/eprint/360890
ISSN: 0749-0208
PURE UUID: 53622660-372a-4edc-ae44-075d093c7a7a

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Date deposited: 06 Jan 2014 11:35
Last modified: 14 Mar 2024 15:43

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Contributors

Author: Xiangbo Feng
Author: A.G.P. Shaw
Author: Wei Zhang

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