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Signatures of ageing: Correlations with behaviour

Signatures of ageing: Correlations with behaviour
Signatures of ageing: Correlations with behaviour
Decisions on the conservation and display of a textile, including prioritisation for treatment, should be informed by objective knowledge of its current physical state. Measuring the tenacity and elasticity of yarns and fabric, however, generally requires sampling and is necessarily destructive.
Bearing in mind the need to maintain the integrity of the artifact, an indirect approach requiring at most the removal of just microsamples is preferred. On ageing, the performance of a natural fibre such as silk or linen is compromised as the components within the fibre deteriorate. There is a reasonable correlation between the reduced tenacity of silk upon ageing and both the shortening of the silk fibroin polymer and the disorientation of the fibroin crystallites.
These two parameters can be measured from just a short length of a silk thread using size exclusion chromatography (SEC) and polarized infrared (IR) spectroscopy, respectively. Other destructive microanalyses, e.g. X-ray diffraction (XRD), X-ray microtomography (XRM) and thermomechanical studies, can also offer characteristic chemical and microstructural identifiers.
More recent technological advances and applied research suggest the potential for non-destructive approaches to condition assessment; with techniques such as near-infrared spectroscopy (NIR), the sampling constraint is circumvented by monitoring a dependent physical effect such as moisture sorption.
linen, silk, condition monitoring, fibre microstructure, ageing, non-destructive analysis
1873132794
137-142
Archetype
Wyeth, P.
cc2fbe44-9585-4f9e-b3f4-477d0a2a96cb
Wyeth, Paul
Janway, Rob
Wyeth, P.
cc2fbe44-9585-4f9e-b3f4-477d0a2a96cb
Wyeth, Paul
Janway, Rob

Wyeth, P. (2005) Signatures of ageing: Correlations with behaviour. Wyeth, Paul and Janway, Rob (eds.) In Scientific Analysis of Ancient and Historic Textiles. Archetype. pp. 137-142 .

Record type: Conference or Workshop Item (Paper)

Abstract

Decisions on the conservation and display of a textile, including prioritisation for treatment, should be informed by objective knowledge of its current physical state. Measuring the tenacity and elasticity of yarns and fabric, however, generally requires sampling and is necessarily destructive.
Bearing in mind the need to maintain the integrity of the artifact, an indirect approach requiring at most the removal of just microsamples is preferred. On ageing, the performance of a natural fibre such as silk or linen is compromised as the components within the fibre deteriorate. There is a reasonable correlation between the reduced tenacity of silk upon ageing and both the shortening of the silk fibroin polymer and the disorientation of the fibroin crystallites.
These two parameters can be measured from just a short length of a silk thread using size exclusion chromatography (SEC) and polarized infrared (IR) spectroscopy, respectively. Other destructive microanalyses, e.g. X-ray diffraction (XRD), X-ray microtomography (XRM) and thermomechanical studies, can also offer characteristic chemical and microstructural identifiers.
More recent technological advances and applied research suggest the potential for non-destructive approaches to condition assessment; with techniques such as near-infrared spectroscopy (NIR), the sampling constraint is circumvented by monitoring a dependent physical effect such as moisture sorption.

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More information

Published date: 2005
Venue - Dates: First Annual Conference of the AHRC Research Centre for Textile Conservation and Textile Studies, Scientific Analysis of Ancient and Historic Textiles: Informing Preservation, Display and Interpretation, Winchester, United Kingdom, 2004-07-12 - 2004-07-14
Keywords: linen, silk, condition monitoring, fibre microstructure, ageing, non-destructive analysis

Identifiers

Local EPrints ID: 18717
URI: http://eprints.soton.ac.uk/id/eprint/18717
ISBN: 1873132794
PURE UUID: a8b73309-1550-4587-8139-30c125d3fb2b

Catalogue record

Date deposited: 23 Nov 2005
Last modified: 22 Apr 2020 16:38

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