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Identification of ‘energetic’ swell waves in a tidal strait

Identification of ‘energetic’ swell waves in a tidal strait
Identification of ‘energetic’ swell waves in a tidal strait
Energetic swell waves present a significant coastal hazard. Overtopping is particularly sensitive to these longer period waves, potentially resulting in coastal flooding. In narrow tidal seas which are linked to large oceans, such as the English Channel, the importance of swell for design considerations is not immediately obvious. However, historical experience shows occasional severe impacts from long period waves, such as on 6th February 1904, 13th February 1979 and most recently two events in February 2014. When wave buoy measurements are analyzed using spectral partitioning methods, it is possible to identify swell wave systems with significant energy within the overall spectrum. This often coincides with the occurrence of storm waves, which might mask the presence of the swell component without such analysis. Two case studies where flooding occurred during storm events are examined in this paper. It has been possible to associate individual spectral components with the occurrence of overtopping of coastal defences at a particular location. Further investigation of the characteristics and frequency of energetic swell waves are recommended to enhance prediction and the design of coastal defences, and hence reduce their consequences.
Waves, Swell, Coastal flooding, Overtopping, Spectral partitioning
0278-4343
203-215
Palmer, T.
dff3f8ce-76c9-42b8-bfec-3131ea394514
Nicholls, R.J.
4ce1e355-cc5d-4702-8124-820932c57076
Wells, N.C.
4c27167c-f972-4822-9614-d6ca8d8223b5
Saulter, A.
fb95b0e6-ae97-4fa5-9181-9cf0996e9fdd
Mason, T.
a9355629-82c6-4872-93fb-643f0c47c02a
Palmer, T.
dff3f8ce-76c9-42b8-bfec-3131ea394514
Nicholls, R.J.
4ce1e355-cc5d-4702-8124-820932c57076
Wells, N.C.
4c27167c-f972-4822-9614-d6ca8d8223b5
Saulter, A.
fb95b0e6-ae97-4fa5-9181-9cf0996e9fdd
Mason, T.
a9355629-82c6-4872-93fb-643f0c47c02a

Palmer, T., Nicholls, R.J., Wells, N.C., Saulter, A. and Mason, T. (2014) Identification of ‘energetic’ swell waves in a tidal strait. Continental Shelf Research, 88, 203-215. (doi:10.1016/j.csr.2014.08.004).

Record type: Article

Abstract

Energetic swell waves present a significant coastal hazard. Overtopping is particularly sensitive to these longer period waves, potentially resulting in coastal flooding. In narrow tidal seas which are linked to large oceans, such as the English Channel, the importance of swell for design considerations is not immediately obvious. However, historical experience shows occasional severe impacts from long period waves, such as on 6th February 1904, 13th February 1979 and most recently two events in February 2014. When wave buoy measurements are analyzed using spectral partitioning methods, it is possible to identify swell wave systems with significant energy within the overall spectrum. This often coincides with the occurrence of storm waves, which might mask the presence of the swell component without such analysis. Two case studies where flooding occurred during storm events are examined in this paper. It has been possible to associate individual spectral components with the occurrence of overtopping of coastal defences at a particular location. Further investigation of the characteristics and frequency of energetic swell waves are recommended to enhance prediction and the design of coastal defences, and hence reduce their consequences.

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More information

Published date: 1 October 2014
Keywords: Waves, Swell, Coastal flooding, Overtopping, Spectral partitioning
Organisations: Physical Oceanography, Faculty of Engineering and the Environment

Identifiers

Local EPrints ID: 370534
URI: http://eprints.soton.ac.uk/id/eprint/370534
ISSN: 0278-4343
PURE UUID: 44a8c17e-f98d-40d8-abd9-5ff22b456e14
ORCID for R.J. Nicholls: ORCID iD orcid.org/0000-0002-9715-1109

Catalogue record

Date deposited: 28 Oct 2014 11:26
Last modified: 18 Feb 2021 17:02

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