Beyond significant wave height: A new approach for validating spectral wave models

Dabbi, Edgar Peter, Haigh, Ivan D., Lambkin, David, Hernon, Jamie, Williams, Jon J. and Nicholls, Robert J. (2015) Beyond significant wave height: A new approach for validating spectral wave models. Coastal Engineering, 100, 11-25. (doi:10.1016/j.coastaleng.2015.03.007).

Abstract

Wave data are required in many engineering applications. At locations where measured records are not available or are too short for design purposes, estimates of wave properties from numerical wave models are often used to characterise the expected wave climate. Typically, model predictions are validated against observations of the sea-state parameters, such as significant wave height, peak wave period, mean wave period and mean wave direction. However, while agreement between observed and predicted sea-state parameters can be good, in some cases the measured and predicted wave spectra can diverge significantly. In these circumstances, simple sea state parameters alone are not sufficient to describe the range of wave conditions that could arise at a given site. In this paper we present a new, alternative approach for assessing wave model performance by applying new parameterisation to the frequency wave spectrum. Seven parameters (significant wave height, peak frequency, peak energy density, squared Euclidean distance, skewness, kurtosis and mean width deviation) are used to better define the characteristics of unimodal wave spectra. Sensitivity tests are undertaken to analyse the performance and sensitivity of these parameters in identifying differences between observed and predicted wave spectra, using a range of idealised JONSWAP wave spectra. We demonstrate that comparing multiple parameters is a better method to distinguish differences between spectra than the results obtained using individual parameters in isolation. As such, application of two-dimensional validation matrices are proposed to provide a better, qualitative overview of the goodness of fit between observed and predicted wave spectra. The advantages of the new approach are demonstrated through validation of a hindcast spectral wave model at Hastings, southeast England. We believe that we have achieved our purpose here to start a discussion on alternative validation techniques that could be enhanced in the future.

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Contributors

Author: Ivan D. Haigh

Author: Robert J. Nicholls

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