Time‐scales of a Dune‐Beach System and implications for shoreline modeling
Time‐scales of a Dune‐Beach System and implications for shoreline modeling
Understanding the interactions between dune systems and beaches is critical to determining the short-term shoreline response and the long-term resilience. In this study, almost 15 years of monthly beach/dune measurements were analyzed for three different profiles at Vougot Beach, France to understand and predict shoreline changes from intra-annual to multi-annual time-scales. Four migration modes: advance/retreat (translation modes) and steepening/flattening (rotation modes) were identified through a centroid analysis. The analysis showed that translation and rotation can occur simultaneously, with long-term trends of beach retreat and profile steepening (lower beach retreating and upper beach advancing), which was interrupted by two energetic wave events causing profile flattening (lower beach advancing and upper beach retreating). These two observations are evidence of how the sediment contribution resulting from the dune erosion events temporarily caused a large advance in the shoreline position. A recent modeling approach that accounts for different time-scales is applied to predict the shoreline changes, showing significant improvements in comparison to a traditional shoreline equilibrium model when time-scales related with the dune erosion and recovery are considered. The results showed that the dune system affects the beach profile evolution both spatially, with different impacts at different elevations along the cross-shore profile, and temporally, by periodically redistributing the sediment in the system.
beach migration, centroid Analysis, dune-beach interaction, shoreline prediction, time-scales
Montaño, Jennifer
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Coco, Giovanni
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Chataigner, Teddy
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Yates, Marissa
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Le Dantec, Nicolas
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Suanez, Serge
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Cagigal, Laura
44e1cdb9-c8c5-423c-89af-c422068cab04
Floc'h, France
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Townend, Ian
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1 November 2021
Montaño, Jennifer
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Coco, Giovanni
8a6c97e1-2a44-4f03-ad8d-e03dbc2908db
Chataigner, Teddy
474cc178-d915-4dad-830d-c71dc12a354f
Yates, Marissa
24477454-d3ea-4db6-86cf-8128d33dbe6f
Le Dantec, Nicolas
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Suanez, Serge
2bcdc9dc-b94b-42c1-b5fd-fe95eb74e9ee
Cagigal, Laura
44e1cdb9-c8c5-423c-89af-c422068cab04
Floc'h, France
72add03c-53b3-4498-a10c-94361a5a4725
Townend, Ian
f72e5186-cae8-41fd-8712-d5746f78328e
Montaño, Jennifer, Coco, Giovanni, Chataigner, Teddy, Yates, Marissa, Le Dantec, Nicolas, Suanez, Serge, Cagigal, Laura, Floc'h, France and Townend, Ian
(2021)
Time‐scales of a Dune‐Beach System and implications for shoreline modeling.
Journal of Geophysical Research: Earth Surface, 126 (11), [e2021JF006169].
(doi:10.1029/2021JF006169).
Abstract
Understanding the interactions between dune systems and beaches is critical to determining the short-term shoreline response and the long-term resilience. In this study, almost 15 years of monthly beach/dune measurements were analyzed for three different profiles at Vougot Beach, France to understand and predict shoreline changes from intra-annual to multi-annual time-scales. Four migration modes: advance/retreat (translation modes) and steepening/flattening (rotation modes) were identified through a centroid analysis. The analysis showed that translation and rotation can occur simultaneously, with long-term trends of beach retreat and profile steepening (lower beach retreating and upper beach advancing), which was interrupted by two energetic wave events causing profile flattening (lower beach advancing and upper beach retreating). These two observations are evidence of how the sediment contribution resulting from the dune erosion events temporarily caused a large advance in the shoreline position. A recent modeling approach that accounts for different time-scales is applied to predict the shoreline changes, showing significant improvements in comparison to a traditional shoreline equilibrium model when time-scales related with the dune erosion and recovery are considered. The results showed that the dune system affects the beach profile evolution both spatially, with different impacts at different elevations along the cross-shore profile, and temporally, by periodically redistributing the sediment in the system.
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Accepted/In Press date: 1 October 2021
Published date: 1 November 2021
Additional Information:
Funding Information:
This study was supported by ISblue project, Interdisciplinary graduate school for the blue planet (ANR-17-EURE-0015) and co-funded by a grant from the French government under the program ?Investissements d'Avenir,? which funded my research stay at the Laboratoire Geosciences Ocean (LGO UMR 6538 CNRS) ? Universit? de Bretagne Occidentale, and the Laboratoire d'Hydraulique Saint-Venant (LHSV) ? Universit? de Paris-Est. The survey of the Vougot beach is realized in the framework of the french??Service National d'Observation? (SNO) DYNALIT labelled by the Institut National des Sciences de l'Univers (INSU) and co-funded by the CNRS (Centre National de la Recherche Scientifique).
Funding Information:
This study was supported by ISblue project, Interdisciplinary graduate school for the blue planet (ANR‐17‐EURE‐0015) and co‐funded by a grant from the French government under the program “Investissements d'Avenir,” which funded my research stay at the Laboratoire Geosciences Ocean (LGO UMR 6538 CNRS) – Université de Bretagne Occidentale, and the Laboratoire d'Hydraulique Saint‐Venant (LHSV) – Université de Paris‐Est. The survey of the Vougot beach is realized in the framework of the french “Service National d'Observation” (SNO) DYNALIT labelled by the Institut National des Sciences de l'Univers (INSU) and co‐funded by the CNRS (Centre National de la Recherche Scientifique).
Publisher Copyright:
© 2021. American Geophysical Union. All Rights Reserved.
Keywords:
beach migration, centroid Analysis, dune-beach interaction, shoreline prediction, time-scales
Identifiers
Local EPrints ID: 472350
URI: http://eprints.soton.ac.uk/id/eprint/472350
ISSN: 2169-9003
PURE UUID: 82a5aab9-de13-4e55-96c4-26f0c921096a
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Date deposited: 01 Dec 2022 18:00
Last modified: 17 Mar 2024 02:54
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Contributors
Author:
Jennifer Montaño
Author:
Giovanni Coco
Author:
Teddy Chataigner
Author:
Marissa Yates
Author:
Nicolas Le Dantec
Author:
Serge Suanez
Author:
Laura Cagigal
Author:
France Floc'h
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