The role of the retailer in socially responsible fashion purchasing

James, Alana M. and Montgomery, Bruce (2016) The role of the retailer in socially responsible fashion purchasing. In, Senthilkannan, Subramanian Mathu (ed.) Textiles and Clothing Sustainability: Sustainable Fashion and Consumption. (Textile Science and Clothing Technology) Hong Kong. Springer. (doi:10.1007/978-981-10-2131-2_1).

Abstract

In recent years there have been a number of dramatic changes in the fashion retail arena, not only have consumer needs changed but also the way they purchase fashion products. The emergence of the fast fashion business model allowed consumers access to new collections every few weeks, with some retailers now moving to up to 12 collections per year. Whilst this approach reflects the very antithesis of fashion; constantly renewing itself and offering new trends every season, the pace of the supply chain has also had to increase to meet demand. This constant access to new fashion products has adapted the wants and needs of the consumer, with quantity rather that quality being preferred. However, it is this acceleration of the supply chain that has lead to a number of social and environmental issues occurring. Opposing this speed of consumption is socially responsible purchasing, where ethical considerations are taken into account during the design and production of fashion. Both consumers and retailers alike are beginning to adopt this approach evidenced in both corporate social responsibility strategies and ethical purchasing behaviour. However, there are key issues currently preventing a fundamental change in the industry such as a lack of incentives for responsible purchasing behaviour and poor aesthetics. It is these issues that need addressing in order to push the industry towards a more socially responsible future. The positioning of the responsibility for the future of the industry is a highly debated topic, with both consumers and retailers often being assumed as leaders. This chapter explores the role of the retailer in this debate and the powerful position they are in as the middleman between the purchasing consumers and the manufacturing suppliers. In order to influence consumer behaviour towards a more socially responsible approach, retailers need to engage their consumers in an innovative way. Their unique role is to inspire their consumers, using fashion as the communication vehicle for a drive towards future change.

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