Re-processing Datawell Directional Waverider MkIII heave data affected by breaking waves

Abstract

Observations of nearshore waves are essential for coastal management, planning and operations. However, shallow water deployments often encounter breaking waves, causing anomalous measurements that are rejected during quality control. A new methodology for re-processing wave data containing breaking waves has been developed, utilising data from the National Network of Regional Coastal Monitoring Programmes of England which operates 37 Datawell Directional Waverider MkIII buoys. Heave data affected by breaking waves is reviewed, anomalous heaves removed, and the remaining data re-processed. Validation through a two-stage process confirms that re-processed wave parameters closely match those derived from the established Datawell processing and ensures strong agreement between parameters derived from shorter re-processed records and full-length data. Applying this new approach to all measured storm wave data, 7.3% (928.5 hours) of storm wave data is recovered across the 37 sites. At some sites, the retention of additional storm wave data has considerable impacts on significant wave height (Hm0) return periods. At five sites, the 1 in 100 year return period increased by over one meter. The enhanced dataset now includes more individual storm events and more complete records of storm events, providing a more robust foundation for coastal management and planning.

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ORCID for Charlie Thompson: orcid.org/0000-0003-1105-6838

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