Undocumented textiles: material expressions of Indian Ocean identities in literature
Undocumented textiles: material expressions of Indian Ocean identities in literature
In this article, I explore the way that a work song called “Hooyaalaadee” reveals the importance of women’s textile
labor to the Banaadiri people, the Somali nation and the wider Indian Ocean textile industry. Although written historiography has not adequately documented southern Somalia’s rich textile industry, the Banaadiri woman facilitates a multitude of narratives about this important textile trade through performing this oral work song. “Hooyaalaadee” shows the way that an oral poem can be an alternative means through which to preserve and archive the histories of textile production within the Banaadiri community. I argue that in “Hooyaalaadee,” the Banaadiri woman’s role as the spinner of cotton in the manufacture of the Futa Benaadir, a cloth spun and woven by the Banaadiri community as well as the weaver of hats, mats and baskets, is generative of strong kinship networks. The Banaadiri women create the threads to not only bind the Banaadiri community together as a unit but also to connect the Banaadiri people with the Somali nation and the wider Indian Ocean world. I read Amitav Ghosh’s 1986 novel The Circle of Reason to bring into relief many of the ideas around regionally specific identity, community and culture which emerge from “Hooyaalaadee”.
Indian Ocean textiles, The Futa Benaadir, Banaadiri women's textile labour, storytelling, cultural co-production through cloth
415-432
Salaad, Ayan
c9f84d9b-fde7-4896-9be4-56a0c806b181
20 September 2021
Salaad, Ayan
c9f84d9b-fde7-4896-9be4-56a0c806b181
Salaad, Ayan
(2021)
Undocumented textiles: material expressions of Indian Ocean identities in literature.
Textile: The Journal of Cloth and Culture, 19 (4), .
(doi:10.1080/14759756.2021.1932075).
Abstract
In this article, I explore the way that a work song called “Hooyaalaadee” reveals the importance of women’s textile
labor to the Banaadiri people, the Somali nation and the wider Indian Ocean textile industry. Although written historiography has not adequately documented southern Somalia’s rich textile industry, the Banaadiri woman facilitates a multitude of narratives about this important textile trade through performing this oral work song. “Hooyaalaadee” shows the way that an oral poem can be an alternative means through which to preserve and archive the histories of textile production within the Banaadiri community. I argue that in “Hooyaalaadee,” the Banaadiri woman’s role as the spinner of cotton in the manufacture of the Futa Benaadir, a cloth spun and woven by the Banaadiri community as well as the weaver of hats, mats and baskets, is generative of strong kinship networks. The Banaadiri women create the threads to not only bind the Banaadiri community together as a unit but also to connect the Banaadiri people with the Somali nation and the wider Indian Ocean world. I read Amitav Ghosh’s 1986 novel The Circle of Reason to bring into relief many of the ideas around regionally specific identity, community and culture which emerge from “Hooyaalaadee”.
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Undocumented Textiles Material Expressions of Indian Ocean Identities in Literature
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Published date: 20 September 2021
Keywords:
Indian Ocean textiles, The Futa Benaadir, Banaadiri women's textile labour, storytelling, cultural co-production through cloth
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Local EPrints ID: 509416
URI: http://eprints.soton.ac.uk/id/eprint/509416
ISSN: 1475-9756
PURE UUID: b1e9ece9-3460-41e8-a474-a3ac0eef6e68
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Date deposited: 20 Feb 2026 17:47
Last modified: 21 Feb 2026 03:22
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Author:
Ayan Salaad
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