Chaplin, John R.
Developments of stream-function wave theory
Coastal Engineering, 3, (1979-1980), . (doi:10.1016/0378-3839(79)90020-6).
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Recent work on the problem of the periodic wave of permanent form has revealed some unexpected characteristics which are not predicted by any of the wave theories in engineering use. Of these, the stream-function wave theory is the most accurate, and it is shown in this paper by means of a reformulated method of application to be capable of predicting correctly the behaviour of steep and near-breaking waves. Errors in stream-function wave-theory tables are assessed and found to be particularly significant for very steep waves, when crest particle velocities are under-estimated by 25% or more. As a development of the modified method of application, an approximate stream-function wave theory is presented. It permits a solution to be obtained for given wave conditions in any depth of water but requires much more modest computer resources than the full stream-function theory.
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